opinions – Sam’s Food Blog

Salt is Not the Enemy

Today I came across an article by NYMag on whether or not the salt added to restaurant food is killing us.

The answer, despite what their weird salt hit piece says, is no.

With political norms being shaken up around the country, old media publications are doing everything they can to distract you from the ever changing status quo.

Eating at restaurants for most Americans has become more of a luxury than ever. To think peoples’ health as being at risk from eating salty restaurant food is fear mongering at its finest. We’ve got enough to worry about as it is here in the US, what with our government all but selling us off to the highest bidder and food being more expensive than ever just to save boardroom hermits’ pocket cash. The same way we need an overwhelming overhaul to our political system, we also need a re-aligning of our media outlets. Instead of adding something superfluous to our list of deadly factors of life, give us something to hope for.

Focus on the love that we can share with food. The comfort we can conjure among our favorite people, eating food made with love.

To reiterate, salt is not your enemy. The enemies are those that are trying to convince you that the special reservation you made for the once-in-a-month treat should be underlined by anxiety. Over consumption is definitely a problem for a lot of people, but it stems more from heavily processed convenience foods like chips, soda, fast food and the like.

If you’re truly worried about your salt levels, and a doctor hasn’t told you to, drink more water and I guarantee it will help.

Seasoning Mastery, pt 2

Welcome to the next part of my series Seasoning Mastery!

Part 1 explored my recommended best practice in terms of getting used to properly seasoning your food. You learned how to season a chicken leg to lip smacking perfection.

This time, we focus on seasoning water-based foods(broths, soups and stocks). There’s not so much direct instruction in terms of actually seasoning, the key here is to ready internalize seasoning, bit by bit.

Cooking with this medium is somewhat simple, but specific rules tend to be found across the world to allow for a duplicatable end result with potentially inconsistent ingredients. At the beginning, you want to keep seasoning with straight salt to a minimum. A pinch here or there, but most definitely avoid adding too much salt to start. It is important to note that you don’t have to avoid salt altogether, but too much salt early on can lead to a salty end product, especially after reducing the liquid by a measurable amount.

Also take into consideration salty ingredients like salted fish (fish sauce, anchovy paste), concentrates (bullion), preserved fruit (lemons, limes) or any other thing that is very strongly flavored and meant to lay a base of flavor for the rest of the dish. This seasons in the beginning, perfume,ing all other ingredients and allowing room for more salt to perfectly balance the flavors at the end of cooking.

A good method to getting your broths and soups to a perfect salt level is to go a little at a time. Taste constantly, adjusting levels of acid, salt, sweetness, fat to hone in on the best end result. My preferred method in terms of going a little at a time is to have a spoon, scoop up some broth and salt it lightly. Taste what’s on the spoon and think about the taste. If it tastes good, add some salt or other balancing flavor to the lot without adding too much. When in doubt, remember that you can’t take away once you add, and you can always add more if need be.

Once the liquid is delicious and balanced, you can enjoy on the spot, or you can pack it up into the fridge to cool and it will be even better the next day. This extra step can be the difference between good and great food.

But keep in mind, it’s your food and you can do with it what you want at the end of the day, I’m just here to help.

Simplicity

I can’t stand when a chef says that the recipe they use for something is “simple” but then use an ultra specific piece of equipment only really available in restaurants or the kitchens of wealthy people that can afford it.

Great, simple recipes are not made so based on the amount of ingredients. The method to get to the other side of raw components

The clip that comes to mind is of a European chef claiming that his “simple dessert” is perfectly delicious, despite his effort. He isn’t lying, because it is simple to him. He takes créme englaise (most likely supplied by one of his lackeys) and adds it to chocolate. Super simple!

The problem is that he dumps this shit into a $2200 Thermomix that can also be used to heat cook the mixture.

Most chefs of a certain level are so sickeningly disconnected from reality that “simplicity” in their presence is only really found after digging through layers and layers of technique and currency. Of course it’s possible to recreate his method and dish in more common home equipment, but the effort and thought required to convert his technique to the real world make the recipe inherently not simple anymore.

It’s hard to say why so many chefs fall into this fallacious habit of over simplifying description and approach, but I would bet money that it’s simply due to them being a bit too disconnected from reality. They’ve been in their realms for so long surrounded by vacuum sealers, Pacojets and Hobarts to realize that the ground that they’re looking down upon is actually just clouds.

De-Elitizing High Quality Food

The year is 2024.

Consumers are scrutinizing what they put into their bodies more than ever. Regular, middle class people are actually caring about how they eat, going so far as to label certain ingredients as “toxic” based on advice from non-experts on social media, and further blacklisting a ton of seemingly inconspicuous products because they can’t pronounce a handful of the listed ingredients. These people needlessly fear mongering over “seed oils” and other superfluous buzz words only do so because they can afford to. Meanwhile, the rest of us have become practice dummies for the greedy corporations to crank prices up to see just how much stress they can put on the working class beneath them. The real issue isn’t antibiotics in your chicken, it’s the fact that a lot of people can’t afford anything but the cheapest option in the meat section.

I’m all for caring about this side of processed food, and holding a magnifying glass up against greedy companies pushing “health food” to people desperate for nourishment. More than ever has it become clear that a lot of the mass-produced foodstuff that we see advertised as wholesome and healthy are really just a branding exercise on how deeply misinformed so many of us are about food. In terms of fresh produce, prices are unsettling to say the least. We can tout “eat organic” all day, but when the organic onions are almost 50% more expensive than their non-organic counterpart ($1.69 for non-organic vs. $2.49 for organic), it feels like less of a “rule of thumb” and more like a luxury most available to those who are ahead financially.

I understand the concept of making more money and rightfully being able to provide yourself with a better quality of life. Love it or hate it, that is the reality of the capitalist society we live in. I would be pissed if my raise in pay ended up not showing in how well I can live for myself. However, it should affect things like your brand of sneakers, the size of your TV, or the maker of your car, not the quality of your necessary provisions. After all, from early childhood onward we are told that god himself wants us to have access to “life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness.” Obviously that “life” isn’t guaranteed, the “liberty” has become a shrinking list of shit choices, and the “pursuit of happiness” has been reduced to a desire to achieve what others have, rather than an actual path upward in life.

I’m not saying that everyone needs organic everything all the time. I’m not even saying the organic issue is the most pressing part of our food system here in the USA. What I am saying is that eating healthily shouldn’t be a luxury. Having access to clean, well processed meat and poultry should be expected in the “richest country of the western world,” without exception. Our cultural obsession with always getting bigger and faster and more profitable has officially undermined our ability to properly provide for ourselves, and even when a company comes along to provide that service, it’s typical, sooner or later, for that small business to sell-out to the highest bidder and rid themselves of the headache of operating a business like that as a non-corporation. And the cycle begins again and again. “We want our high quality product on she shelves of every grocery store in America,” is what we hear time and again from local mom-and-pop brands on the come-up. The American Dream was never about creating a better America, it’s been about winning at life. And now it’s not even about that, it’s become more about just getting to the finish line of line with you and yours intact and nothing more. Don’t worry about your neighbors getting screwed, just keep your head down and make it to the end and you’ll be just fine.

I don’t know about you, but I want better for my fellow American no matter how differently they look, think, or vote than me. Better starts at the bottom with strong integrity of individuals, and I fear that we may never return to that type of strength. Yes, an 80¢ difference in onion prices seems insignificant. It’s a minute difference that a lot of people won’t notice, but it is a sign of something that’s wrong with the priorities of our leadership.

Yes, I think everyone at some point in their lives should experience the taste of a perfectly ripe, in-season tomato. Yes I think that sort of experience can convert seasonal produce detractors to agreeing that local, seasonal produce might be good for our communities, even if a little more expensive. But that’s the difference in that sort of thing. Produce like that is a luxury right now for a disturbingly large majority of our populous, not an expectation.

My goal is not necessarily to make the absolute best version of every single dish or idea. My goal is to make the best version of things that can be made just as well for a family who eats produce exclusively from Walmart-Mart or any other large-scale chain grocery store with mediocre produce. I used to easily get caught up on specifics like particular ingredients and brands. I used to get very frustrated when people didn’t take specifics like that as seriously as me. Now I know that technique, intuition, and the ability to adapt are the most important aspects of cooking, and the world would be a better place if everyone had that capacity.

Vanilla: Basic or Bullied?

What do you think of when you hear the word “vanilla?” Does it conjure up images of plainness, boredom or familiarity? For years, vanilla simply served as a basic flavor for me, as it does for most people. As for vanilla sweets, I never preferred them, but they were always there just in case someone happened to not like chocolate. I didn’t dislike it, nor did I ever seek it out in any capacity. As I’ve gotten older, I’ve learned that having the same thing over and over gets old, even when it comes to the things we enjoy the most. I learned to cherish the intention that some things should be enjoyed with, those being indulgent things like gelato and cheesecake that could ruin my health if I had it every day. Every day does not need to include the most decadent dishes; Sometimes something light and simple makes you feel the best.

Recently I started trying to look at vanilla as a balancer of flavor, a baseline to build upon, as well as its own pillar. I would argue that most don’t know the taste of vanilla in its purest form: floral, pungent and almost spiced. This I blame on the quality of most vanilla syrup and extract, those being the most common forms of vanilla that most people encounter in their everyday lives. For example, vanilla and coffee compliment each other wonderfully, but a bad quality vanilla quite literally sabotages your whole experience.

I see that most people don’t even think twice when it comes to stuff like that. “The quality of this vanilla is not good enough” surely isn’t a thought that a lot of people have. I am not those people. If I’m looking forward to something nice and vanilla flavored, I’m not looking for some half assed vanilla something or other, I expect it to hold its own. That’s why I don’t get vanilla coffee. Most places use mid vanilla syrup, and I would rather not even fool with it in most cases. With food costs reaching record highs, it has become more important than ever for me to be pickier when it comes to paying money for food products/ ingredients. Some would consider that being too bougee, stuck up or even snobbish. I want my food to work for me, just like I worked for the means to be able to afford things in that higher quality bracket of products.

So next time you get vanilla ice cream, vanilla coffee or anything that can be seen as boring because of its vanilla characterization, think about the fact that vanilla is wonderful! We have to hold the things that we consume at a higher standard. Believe me, I know how hard it is to not be able to afford all the nicest versions of things, but cherish the times you DO have the opportunity to pick that real vanilla extract, paste or beans. Your taste buds will thank you, along with all the people in your life that you get the pleasure of sharing your creations with.

The Demonization of Washing Meat

It’s funny to see so many chefs that are blown away by the concept of people washing their meat. “If you’re buying chicken that seems like it needs to be washed, you’re already fucked” is what I heard most recently, and it got me thinking; Not about why people wash chicken, but why so many people have a problem with it. Though food standards are good enough at this point in time that washing chicken is technically unnecessary, the tradition still holds strong for many households of color.

The reason behind this is an unfortunate one, but one that more people aught to know. For decades, there has been fear in colored communities that the people that don’t want them to live where they do sabotaged products and services in their communities to get them to relocate. In sociology there is a concept that states “if one defines situations as real, they are real in their consequences,” and that means whether these communities were sabotaged or not, they believed that they were, and acted accordingly. Washing chicken is a byproduct of overcoming adversity and doing what one needs to keep their family as healthy as they can. Not to mention the fact that many don’t have access to cushy Whole Foods meat sections with their corporate-friendly overly sanitized kitchens and meat cases.

So let me ask all the chefs that scoff at home cooks for washing their meat: If generations of your family felt that they had to wash their chicken so it would be safe to eat, and there wasn’t a trusted-by-you food-handling professional there to tell you not to and explain the reasoning, wouldn’t you wash your meat too? “That’s unsanitary, it spreads chicken particles everywhere” I hear so many cry as they judge behind their smartphone screens. Has noone ever heard of a wipe down? Surface cleansing wipes for the surfaces around the kitchen? If kitchen cleanliness in these situations leads to people getting sick, the cook probably would’ve made a similar mistake in the case that they didn’t wash their chicken.

It’s time to stop assuming and start letting people prepare food how they and their families have prepared it for generations. It seems many are mistaken believing that it was a “trend” around the mid 20th century, and that big names like Julia Child, Betty Crocker and James Beard were doing It in their own kitchens based on antiquated food cleanliness practices. This whitewashes the early struggles of a marginalized America, which is a regular practice in the US’s culinary zeitgeist. This information is out there, we just don’t see enough white chefs acknowledge this practice as traditional and not foolish.

Wash your chicken if you want. Simply pat down the meat with a paper towel if you want. But whatever you do, don’t demonize a whole culture of people just because you don’t get it.